#8 - French Bread for French Onion Soup

The Farmer's Market had a good batch of sweet onions just begging to be made into soup this week, so I loaded up.  My recipe is based on this one from Good Eats, though I use a bit more broth and often can't find apple cider, so I have to substitute apple juice. I've used a number of different kinds of wine in the recipe, so it's never exactly the same twice, though it's always excellent!

Of course, French Onion Soup demands a good French style bread, so I once again consulted James Beard and found an excellent recipe. It came out perfect: a little dense with a slightly hard and chewy crust and a great flavor. Definitely a keeper!

If you're susceptible to onion-tears, chopping nearly a dozen onions may seem daunting, but in the end it's well worth it.

French Onion Soup
10 sweet onions (like Vidalias)
3 tablespoons butter
Kosher salt
2 cups white wine
10 ounces canned beef consume
10 ounces apple cider or juice (unfiltered is best)
12 ounces chicken broth
Bouquet garni(1) of thyme sprigs, bay leaf

1 loaf country style bread, cut into thick slices
grated Gruyere cheese

Slice the onions in half and cut into half-moon shapes. Heat a large(2) soup pot over medium-high heat and add the butter. Once the butter is melted, add the onions in layers, topping each layer with a bit of salt before adding the next. Cover and allow to cook for about an hour, stirring every 15 minutes.(3)

Once the onions have reduced and started to turn a nice caramel color, add the wine and boil uncovered to reduce for 10-15 minutes. Add the consumme, broth, apple cider, and herbs and simmer for another 15-20 minutes.

To serve, place a bit of cheese in an oven-safe, wide soup bowl and ladle in soup. Leave enough room to top with a slice of the bread, and add more cheese on top of the bread. Place under the broiler for 1-2 minutes to melt the cheese.(4)

The original recipe for the bread calls for an egg wash on the loaves before baking; I usually like doing that to get a crisp crust, but I left it out this time(5) and it came out just fine.


French style bread
3 1/2 oz (1 1/2 packages) dry yeast
1 tbsp sugar
2 cups warm water (about 100°)
1 tbsp salt
5-6 cups all-purpose flour

Combine the yeast, sugar, and water in your mixing bowl and allow to proof. Add the salt and the flour, one cup at a time, until you have a stiff dough. Knead additional flour in until it is no longer sticky. Place in a buttered bowl to rise until doubled in bulk, about 1 1/2 hours.

Punch down the dough, then divide and shape into two long round loaves. Place the loaves on a baking sheet sprinkled with a bit of cornmeal. Bake at 400° for 35 minutes.
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(1) A traditional bouquet garni is a bundle tied up with a bit of string, but lacking any string, I used a small cheesecloth pouch instead.
(2) Seriously. 10 onions take up a lot of space when you start out.  By the time it all reduces, you'll only be using half the pot, but initially you need the room.
(3) Don't even try to stir until the first 15 minutes are up. Don't worry about burning, the onions release a lot of water when they cook.
(4) I shouldn't have to mention this, but just to be safe: be careful when you take the bowls out of the oven, they are going to be HOT. I put the bowls all onto a baking sheet for stability and to make it easier to get them in and out of the oven. Make sure your guests know to be careful, too.
(5) OK, I forgot it.

Did someone say "Dessert"?

I just spent three days in Gamer Geek heaven: BoardGameGeekCon, put on right here in DFW by the good folks at BoardGameGeek. This annual event always scores  three of my vacation days, and while it is loads of fun, it also means three days where I don't really see my lovely wife and amazing child, as I come home after they are in bed and either sleep in until after they leave for work and school, or get my sorry butt out of bed and back into the fray early. Either way, they graciously allow me to be absent for a long weekend, for which I am quite grateful.

So grateful, in fact, that I made sure to make time on Sunday to bake for Dorothy's office "Dessert Buffet", with plenty left over to keep for the Big Feast coming up this week (at least, I hope they'll last that long ...). I made two items for her to take along: one family recipe for which I have become well known among my friends, and one I found at the awesome Buns In My Oven blog.

I'm strong to the finich, cuz I eats me spinach!

... but not that nasty, slimy stuff you get in a can. I suspect that eating that stuff is how Popeye's eye got that way.

No, the way to eat spinach is fresh, and combined with things to help the texture and provide a flavor contrast. Spanakopita is one favorite way, but I just learned a new one. Wil Wheaton made a comment about a spinach wrap from Trader Joe's and linked a recipe; this is my version of that:

Come on down to Tony's Diner!

We're cooking up burgers today! Not just any burgers, but good old fashioned roadhouse "sliders" on fresh baked potato rolls!

To start with, we need the rolls. Good bread takes time, but even so this recipe isn't all that intensive. Mostly it just needs time to rise:

1 pkg (1/4 oz) yeast
1 1/2 cup warm potato water(1)
1/3 cup butter, softened
1/4 cup sugar
1 tsp salt
1 cup potatoes, mashed(2)
4-5 cups all purpose flour

In the bowl of your stand mixer, proof the yeast in 1/2 cup of the potato water with 1 tbsp of the sugar. Once the yeast is foamy, add the remaining water, sugar, salt, and butter, and beat until well mixed. Add the potatoes and continue mixing for 2-3 minutes. Add the flour 1/2 cup at a time, allowing each addition to fully incorporate before adding the next. At around 3 or 3 1/2 cups, the dough will be thick enough to switch to a dough hook if you have one. Continue adding 1/2 cup of flour at a time until the dough is pulling away from the bowl. Depending on the humidity, this should be at about 4 or 4 1/2 cups.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead by hand until you have a smooth, satiny dough. You may have to add up to another 1/2 cup of flour. Once it is smooth, form into a ball and place into a buttered bowl. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or up to 24 hours.(3)

When you are ready to continue, take the dough out and punch it down, then let it rest for 10 minutes. Prepare a 9 x 13 baking dish with baking spray or butter.

To prepare the rolls, place the dough onto a cutting board. Use a sharp knife to cut the dough into equal sized portions and arrange those portions into your baking dish.(4) Place in a warm place to rise until doubled in bulk.(5)

Bake at 400° for 16-20 minutes until golden brown.

Once these babies are in the oven, we start preparing the meat. We're doing regular hamburgers as well as grilled chicken, portioned out to fit nicely on the rolls.

Following Alton Brown's instructions from his "Man Food Show" episode, we roll a pound of ground chuck out nice and thin (using a sheet pan, or just eyeballing the size and shape). We sprinkle the top with kosher salt, fresh ground pepper, and onion and garlic powder, then fold the meat over longways, pat it together, and cut into eight squares with a pizza cutter. Finally we put them on a 350° griddle for 3-4 minutes on a side.

For the grilled chicken burgers, we take a split chicken breast and cut each side into three pieces. The thicker portions get flattened out a bit by folding a piece of waxed paper over each piece, then hitting them with a rolling pin a few times. With a bit of olive oil on the griddle we cook them like the burgers, 4 minutes on a side at 350°.

Each burger is served with a bit of your favorite sauce (mayo is mine), some grilled onions, and a slice of cheese. They're small but packed with flavor! Come on down and order yours now!

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(1) This is the water you cooked the potatoes in.  Since I do a lot of potato bread, I'll boil up five or six potatoes at a time, then portion both the potatoes and the water into baggies (1 cup of potato or water in each) and freeze them so I can get out just as much as I need at baking time.

(2) Don't add any salt or butter. This isn't a side dish, it's an ingredient.

(3) Potato bread is a wondrous thing. It does its first rise in the refrigerator, and you can let this go until the next day, allowing you to prep the dough the day before a big dinner. The next day you just get it out, let it warm up, and pop it in the oven.

(4) For the sliders, I went with 16 fairly large rolls by cutting the dough into halves four times. You could also do 24 more dinner-roll sized rolls by cutting the dough first into thirds, then cutting those into halves three more times.

(5) If you refrigerated for the minimum 2 hours, the second rise should take 40 minutes to an hour. If you refrigerate longer, the rise will take longer as the dough has to warm up, so allow enough time and watch the volume of the rolls. I find it helps to put the oven on "warm" (about 170°) for about 5-10 minutes to create a good rising spot. I cover the pan with a towel a spritz a tiny bit of water onto the towel to keep the top of the dough moist but not wet.

Baking Day! Whole Wheat and Molasses loaf and Fruit Crostata

Today I decided to try out an idea I found on The Kitchn for a biscuit crostata. They basically say "use your favorite biscuit recipe, then top with thinly sliced fruit." They used peaches, but since Dorothy doesn't like peach, I decided to go with apples.  Dorothy also suggested strawberry and kiwi, which sounded pretty nice as well. So off I went to the farmer's market for a load of fruit, and when I came home I started in.

For a biscuit recipe, I turned to Alton Brown's I'm Just Here for More Food, the companion to his earlier I'm Just Here for the Food.(1) In More Food, he breaks down baking into several "methods", including the Biscuit Method, the Creaming Method. and the Muffin method (among others). He explains the science behind what is happening, and why there are different techniques for different types of baked goods. After making this biscuit recipe, I don't know that I can ever make another. It's freakin' messy as a dough, and cutting it to make individual biscuits would be tricky, but even just making a sheet biscuit and cutting it yields an amazing result.

Fruit Crostata on Alton Brown's amazing biscuits

2 cups all purpose flour

4 tsp baking powder

1/2 tsp baking soda

1 tsp salt

4 tbps (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, frozen

1 cup buttermilk (2)

1/3 cup plain yogurt (2)

1 egg

Sliced fruit (see below)

Sugar for dusting

Preheat oven to 450°.

Mix the dry ingredients together well (pulsing in a food processor does this very well and very quickly). Use a box grater to grate the frozen butter, yielding butter shavings. Put the butter into the flour mixture and toss to spread around and coat the butter with flour.  Then use your fingertips to rub the butter and flour together until about half of the butter has disappeared into the flour. Put the bowl in the freezer.

Mix the wet ingredients together and beat well. Bring the bowl of flour back and pour the liquid in. Use a rubber or silicon spatula to mix it all together. When you are done you will have a very wet, sticky dough that is closer to a batter than what you usually think of as biscuit dough.

Lay out a 18-20 inch piece of waxed paper on the counter and dust it lightly with flour. Pour the batter into the center, and use the ends to fold the dough on top of itself. (The paper will protect your hands from getting the dough all stuck to them. Club hand is not your friend!) This is a somewhat messy process, and you'll need to watch that the dough doesn't escape out the top or bottom edge of the waxed paper. Give it about three or four folds from each side to get it "kneaded" and well mixed.

Now we have to get it onto the sheet pan(3). Since I wasn't cutting out biscuits that could be individually put onto the tray, I had to get creative. After a couple of false starts, I found a trick that worked: Get the dough spread out so that it is about 1/2 inch thick (don't worry about getting it uniform, it's not going to happen. Just estimate.) Dust the top with flour, then lay out a piece of parchment paper(4) on top of it. Carefully slide a cutting board underneath your waxed paper, then lay your sheet pan face down on top. Now flip! Peel back the waxed paper (yes, a fair amount of dough will be lost to the waxed paper. Sad, but true.) and you have a somewhat rectangular mass of biscuit dough ready to go.

For the topping you want fruit with some substance and strong flavor, sliced fairly thin. For the apple crostata quarter a medium to large Gala apple, slice the core off each quarter, peel them, then shave off very thin slices. Lay out to cover the biscuit and dust with a sprinkling (less than a tablespoon) of brown sugar and top with cinnamon. For the kiwi-strawberry crostata, peel and slice three kiwis and about slice about 8 strawberries (depending on size). Lay out to cover, alternating fruits, and dust with sugar. 

Bake for 15 minutes. Allow a few minutes to cool, then enjoy.

I also figured that as long as I was heating the oven up to 450°, I should take advantage of it and bake a loaf of a new favorite whole wheat bread I gleaned from James Beard's Beard on Bread. Pretty much any loaf I bake either comes directly from Beard or is based on one of his recipes. (One potato bread recipe has become a favorite of my family and neighbors, and I spend a week baking loaves to give as gifts.) This wheat loaf is amazingly simple, only requires a single rise, and happens to bake at 450°, meaning I could prep the loaf and let it rise while I made the crostatas, then just pop it right in the oven when the second crostata came out without having  to let the temperature adjust. It is also pretty unique in being made entirely from whole wheat, rather than a blend of whole wheat with all-purpose flour.

Fast Whole Wheat and Molasses bread

3 1/2 c whole wheat flour

1/4 c oat bran

1 tbsp salt

3 1/2 tsp yeast (1 1/2 packets)

2 tbsp molasses

2 cups warm water

Mix the flour, bran, and salt in a bowl and place in a cool oven(5) to warm up. Stir the molasses into 1/2 cup of the water and add the yeast to proof. Once the yeast is ready, pour into the bowl with the flour and add the remainder of the water. Stir to combine into a very wet, sticky dough.

Turn the oven up to 450° to preheat. 

Prepare a loaf pan with butter or non-stick spray, and put the dough in. Set somewhere warm to rise (should take an hour or two). Once the bread has doubled in bulk, put into the oven and bake for 45-50 minutes.

This bread has a great texture and lots of flavor. It is great as a dinner bread or for sandwiches.

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(1) I really can't recommend both of these books enough.  If I had to pare down to just five cooking related books, Brown's books would be two of them. They don't just list recipes, they teach you how to cook and why you do it that way.

(2) Brown strongly recommends using full-fat buttermilk and yogurt; however, when I went shopping I could only get lowfat or non-fat. I used the lowfat of both, and got great results.

(3) Technically, I'm using a quarter-sheet pan. If your oven holds a full sheet pan, I wanna come use your kitchen some time!

(4) Not waxed paper! Parchment paper is made with silicon, which is oven safe and won't stick to your dough. Waxed paper will melt and leave wax on your bread. Nasty!

(5) My oven has a "Keep Warm" setting that holds at about  170°. If you don't have this, turn your oven to its lowest setting and leave on for just a few minutes to warm up, then turn it off  for this step.